Four slow days on the Isle of Mull

The ferry from Oban leaves at 7:10, and by the time the town disappears behind Kerrera the light has turned the colour of weak tea. Nobody on deck is talking much.

Mull is the kind of island that rewards slowness. Its single-track roads, with their passing places and polite waves, make sure of that.

We spent four days there with no real plan, which turned out to be exactly the right plan. Here is what we found.